Prevent Damage During the Bleaching Process: Your Science-Backed Guide

We love bleached hair and all the other pretty pastel colours that are so in right now. But maintaining this look comes with a high cost – dried out, frizzy looking locks that are permanently damaged. While the bleaching process will always result in some degree of damage to your hair, there are steps you can take during the bleaching process to minimise this damage.

This guide is grounded in academic studies and clean beauty principles (no sulphates, parabens, silicones, or phthalates) and outlines evidence-based steps you can take to protect your hair while using bleach.

The Science of Bleach Damage

Bleaching lightens hair by oxidizing melanin in the cortex, but it also damages the hair’s structure. A 2018 study found that hydrogen peroxide penetrates the cortex, breaking disulfide bonds in keratin and degrading the cuticle’s protective layers, leading to protein loss and increased porosity. Repeated bleaching exacerbates this, weakening hair and causing brittleness, frizz, and breakage. While damage is unavoidable, research highlights ways to reduce its severity by optimizing the bleaching process and using protective treatments. Our guide leverages these findings to help you maintain healthy, vibrant hair.

Five Evidence-Based Steps to Minimize Bleach Damage

Follow these steps, backed by academic research, to reduce damage during bleaching and keep your hair strong. These apply whether you’re bleaching at a salon or at home, though we strongly recommend professional services for optimal safety.

Step 1: Consult a Professional Stylist

A skilled stylist can tailor the bleaching process to your hair’s condition, minimizing damage. A 2010 study noted that improper bleaching techniques, such as excessive heat or high peroxide concentrations, increase cuticle and scalp damage. Professionals assess your hair’s porosity, strength, and prior treatments to choose the safest approach.

How to Choose a Stylist:

• Schedule a free consultation to discuss your hair goals and assess the stylist’s expertise.

• Ask about their experience with bleached hair and damage-prevention techniques (e.g., using lower-volume peroxide or bond builders).

• Ensure open communication to clarify your preferences and address concerns, fostering trust.

  
  

Why It Works: Professional application reduces errors, and stylists can use advanced formulations, like those with alternative alkaline agents, to lessen damage.

Step 2: Use an AMPD-Based Bleach

The choice of bleaching agent matters. Traditional bleaches use ammonium hydroxide, which has a pungent odor and causes significant cuticle damage. A 2020 study found that 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (AMPD) as an alkaline agent reduces protein loss and cuticle damage compared to ammonium hydroxide while achieving similar lightening. AMPD-based bleaches also produce less odor, improving the salon experience.

Action Steps:

• Ask your stylist if they offer AMPD-based bleaches, which are gentler on hair.

• If bleaching at home, look for clean beauty kits with AMPD (check ingredient lists).

• Avoid bleaches with ammonium persulfate boosters, as a 2010 study linked them to increased structural damage.

  
  

Why It Works: AMPD minimises oxidative stress on keratin, preserving hair strength and reducing frizz.

Step 3: Limit Bleach Exposure

Repeated bleaching accumulates damage, as each session further degrades proteins and lipids. A 2007 study showed that bleaching increases hair porosity and split ends, with damage intensifying over multiple sessions.

To reduce exposure to bleach:

• Target New Growth: Request that your stylist bleach only unprocessed hair (e.g., roots) during touch-ups, avoiding re-bleaching already lightened sections.

• Space Out Sessions: Wait 10–12 weeks between bleaching to allow hair recovery, as suggested by a 2010 study on minimising chemical stress.

• Use Lower-Volume Peroxide: A 2011 study found that 6% hydrogen peroxide causes less damage than 9%, though it may require longer processing time.

Why It Works: Minimizing bleach contact preserves the hair’s structural integrity and reduces cumulative damage.

Step 4: Incorporate Bond-Building Treatments

Bond-building treatments, like those targeting disulfide bonds, protect hair during bleaching. A 2021 study validated that formulations repairing broken disulfide bonds improve hair elasticity and strength after a single use. These treatments work by reconnecting bonds damaged by peroxide, reducing breakage.

Recommended Product: Ask your stylist about clean beauty bond builders (e.g., those free of silicones and parabens) applied during bleaching. At home, use a follow-up treatment weekly to maintain bond strength.

Action Steps:

• Request a bond-building treatment during your salon bleach session.

• Use a clean beauty bond repair product at home for 4–6 weeks post-bleach to reinforce hair.

• Avoid overuse, as excessive protein can stiffen hair, per a 2021 study.

Why It Works: Bond builders counteract peroxide’s oxidative damage, strengthening hair from within.

Step 5: Maintain Colour with Clean Beauty Products

Preserving your color reduces the need for frequent bleaching, minimizing damage. A 2018 study found that UV exposure and harsh shampoos fade bleached hair, necessitating more touch-ups. Clean beauty products with antioxidants and colour-protecting agents help maintain vibrancy.

Recommended Products:

• Sulfate-Free Purple Shampoo: Use weekly to neutralize brassy tones. Look for formulas with antioxidants like vitamin E to protect against oxidative stress.

• Purple Conditioner: Apply after shampoo to hydrate and smooth the cuticle, reducing porosity.

• Antioxidant-Infused Leave-In Spray: A 2018 study showed that antioxidants (e.g., edelweiss extract) shield bleached hair from environmental damage.

Action Steps:

• Wash with purple shampoo and conditioner once weekly, focusing on mid-lengths to ends.

• Apply a leave-in spray daily to protect against UV and pollution.

• Avoid hot water and aggressive scrubbing, which strip color and lipids.

Why It Works: Color maintenance extends the time between bleaching sessions, reducing chemical stress.

At-Home Bleaching: Proceed with Caution

Salon bleaching is safest, as professionals control variables like peroxide strength and timing. However, if you must bleach at home, use a clean beauty, all-in-one kit to simplify the process and reduce errors. A 2010 study warned that improper home bleaching (e.g., leaving bleach on too long) causes severe cuticle damage and scalp irritation. Choose kits with lower-volume peroxide (6%) and AMPD, and follow instructions precisely.

Tips for Safe Home Bleaching:

• Do a strand test to check processing time and avoid over-bleaching.

• Apply to unprocessed hair only, avoiding overlap with previously bleached sections.

• Use a timer to prevent exceeding the recommended processing time.

• Follow with a clean beauty bond-building treatment to repair bonds.

Why It Works: Controlled application and clean beauty products minimize damage and ensure safer results.

Additional Protective Measures

Research offers further strategies to safeguard your hair during bleaching:

• Pre-Bleach Conditioning: A 2003 study found that applying coconut oil 1–2 days before bleaching reduces protein loss by forming a protective barrier. Use a clean beauty oil like coconut or argan.

• Arginine-Enhanced Bleach: A 2004 study showed that arginine in bleaching formulas reduces oxidative damage to the cuticle, improving hydrophobicity and strength. Ask your stylist about arginine-infused bleaches.

• Avoid Heat Boosters: A 2010 study linked heat application during bleaching to increased cuticle lifting and scalp burns. Request air-temperature processing.

• Scalp Protection: A 2016 study on scalp massage suggests it boosts circulation, supporting healthy regrowth post-bleach. Massage your scalp gently before and after bleaching.

Long-Term Hair Health

To keep your bleached hair vibrant and strong:

• Continue weekly purple shampoo and conditioner to maintain color.

• Use lipid-rich masks (e.g., with argan oil) weekly to restore the hydro-lipid layer, as per a 2010 study.

• Schedule trims every 8–12 weeks to remove split ends, which worsen with bleaching.

• Protect hair from UV and pollution with antioxidant sprays.

Join Our Blonde Tribe

Your hair’s damage is temporary, and we’re here to guide you. Visit our About page for more on our scientist-led mission. Your healthy hair awaits!

Your Bleached Hair Don’t Care Team x

References:

1. Grosvenor, A. J., et al. (2018). The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after bleaching – studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40(6), 536–548. doi:10.1111/ics.12495

2. Jeong, M. S., et al. (2010). Significant damage of the skin and hair following hair bleaching. Journal of Dermatology, 37(10), 882–887. doi:10.1111/j.1346-8138.2010.00916.x

3. Imai, T. (2011). The influence of hair bleach on the ultrastructure of human hair with special reference to hair damage. Okajimas Folia Anatomica Japonica, 88(1), 1–9. doi:10.2535/ofaj.88.1

4. Lee, Y., et al. (2020). Research on hair bleach that causes less hair damage and smells less pungent than ammonium hydroxide. Molecules, 25(12), 2785. doi:10.3390/molecules25122785

5. Oshimura, E., et al. (2004). Effects of arginine on hair damage via oxidative coloring process. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 55(Suppl), S155–S170. PMID:15645110

6. Koyama, T., et al. (2016). Standardized scalp massage results in increased hair thickness by inducing stretching forces to dermal papilla cells. Eplasty, 16, e8. PMID:26981366

7. Rele, A. S., & Mohile, R. B. (2003). Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 54(2), 175–192. PMID:12715094

8. Marsh, J. M., et al. (2021). Advanced hair damage model from ultra-violet radiation in the presence of copper. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 43(3), 267–274. doi:10.1111/ics.12690

9. Davis, M. G., et al. (2018). Antioxidant efficacy in protecting hair from oxidative stress. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 789–794. doi:10.1111/jocd.12745

10. Sinclair, R. D. (2007). Healthy hair: What is it? Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 12(2), 2–5. doi:10.1038/sj.jidsymp.5650046